Twill weave produces diagonal lines on the face and back of the fabric. For this reason, its structure is not as comfortable as plain weave. The prominence of the twill fabric is one of the important factors.
Factors Affecting the Prominence of Twill Weave:
There have some factors which affect the prominence of twill weave. They are as:
The character of Weave:
Characteristics of weave affect the prominence of the twill fabric greatly. Twill lines of short float create less prominence of twill line and twill line of long float creates more prominence of twill line, weaker fabric, create looseness.
Characteristics of Yarn:
The prominence of the twill weave depends on the yarn type. Twill line of single yarn causes less prominence. Twill lines of folded or ply yarn cause more prominence. Twill weave becomes less prominent for the same direction of twist and twill line, also for finer and hard twisted yarn. On the other hand, the opposite direction of twist and twill line and coarser and soft twisted yarn increase the prominence of the twill weave.
Number of Ends and Picks Per Inch:
EPI and PPI greatly affect the prominence of twill weave. More EPI and PPI create more prominence in the twill weave and Less EPI and PPI cause less prominence in the woven structure.
Relative Direction of Twill and Yarn Twist
The direction of the twist in the yarn is another important factor that influences the prominence of the twill weave. Basically, if the yarn twist direction is opposite to the twill direction then the prominence of the twill is increased. Conversely, if the yarn twist direction is the same as the twill direction then the prominence is reduced. As a result, a Z twill with Z twist yarn or an S twill with S twist yarn shows less prominence similarly, a Z twill with S twist yarn or S twill with Z twist yarn gives more prominence.
So, from the above, we see that the prominence of twill weave depends on the characteristics of weave, characteristics of yarn as well as the number of EPI and PPI of woven twill fabric.