Zigzag twill is the most important derivatives of twill weave. Various types of ornamented design are done by this type of twill. Here, I have written about the features of zigzag twill.
Characteristics Of Zigzag Twill: Characteristics of zigzag twill is given below.
- By the reversing of the direction of the twill at suitable intervals, zigzag twill is produced.
- Sometimes it is referred to as Pointed Twill because a point is created in reversing point.
- Zigzag twill is used for producing shirt, pant, figured or ornamented design, Upholstery, Wall covering and many more weave.
Classification of Zigzag Twill: Zigzag twill is classified into following two ways. They are-
- Horizontal zigzag twill
- Vertical zigzag twill
Features of Horizontal Zigzag Twill:
- In the repeat, the number of warp yarn is doubled to the number of weft yarn.
- Horizontal zigzag design is done by Point draft.
Features of Vertical Zigzag Twill:
- In the repeat, the number of weft yarn is doubled to the number of warp yarn.
- Straight draft is used for this weave.
That’s all about the characteristics of zigzag twill.
Twill weave produces diagonal lines on the face and back of the fabric. For this reason, its structure is not so comfort as plain weave. The prominence of the twill fabric is one of the important factors.
Factors Affecting the Prominence of Twill Weave: There have some factors which affects the prominence of twill weave. They are as:
Character of Weave: Characteristics of weave affects the prominence of the twill fabric greatly. Twill lines of short float create less prominence of twill line and twill line of long float creates more prominence of twill line, weaker fabric, create looseness.
Characteristics of Yarn: Prominence of twill weave depends on yarn type. Twill line of single yarn causes less prominence. Twill lines of folded or ply yarn causes more prominence. Twill weave becomes less prominence for same direction of twist and twill line, also for finer and hard twisted yarn. On the other hand, opposite direction of twist and twill line and coarser and soft twisted yarn increase the prominence of twill weave.
Number of Ends and Picks per Inch: EPI and PPI greatly affects on the prominence of twill weave. More EPI and PPI create more prominence of twill weave and Less EPI and PPI causes less prominence of woven structure.
So, from the above we see that, the prominence of twill weave depends on the characteristics of weave, characteristics of yarn as well as the number of EPI and PPI of woven twill fabric.
Twill Weave: Twill weave is the second major design after plain weave. A weave that repeats on three or more picks and produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric is called Twill Weave. Twill weave also can be defined as “The order of interlacing which causes diagonal lines of warp and weft floats to be formed on the cloth”. Twill weave has some derivatives by which various types of decorative woven fabric are produced.
Properties of Twill Weave: Twill weave has some features. Properties of twill weave are given below.
- Diagonal ribs or cords are seen on the twill fabric.
- These twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but displacing the interlacing points of each end and by one pick relatives to that of the previous end.
- In the both sides of the fabric, twill lines are formed.
- It takes minimum 3 ends and 3 picks relative to that of the previous one. The smallest repeat is 3 X 3.
- Straight draft is commonly used for producing twill weave.
- It required three or more heald shaft for producing the design.
- Diagonal lines can be formed right to left or left to right.
- Due to closer setting of yarn, it produces greater weight than woven fabric.
- Depending on the direction of twill lines on the face of the cloth, twills are classified as Z twill and S twill.
So, there are lots of characteristics of twill weave. I have written about the properties of plain weave. If you compare between this two weave, you will find the difference between the twill and plain weave.