Needle is the key of sewing. Sewing thread is passed through the needle. Different stitching is done by the needle. Faulty needle can bring some fabric faults in the fabrics. Needle is different in size which is expressed by needle number. We also know needle types also differ depending on its end use. Medical needle and garment sewing needle is not same. So they have own properties.
A basic needle has the following parts:
Now I will give a description about the construction of needle. This needle is used for garment sewing.
- Butt: Butt is the top of the needle. It is conical in shape. Its insertion into the needle bar or clamp.
- Shank: Shank is larger in diameter than the rest of the needle. This part can be cylindrical shape or flat in one side.
- Shoulder: Shoulder is the joining section between Shank and Blade.
- Blade: Blade is the longest section of the needle.
- Grooves: Grooves are divided into two parts. Long groove placed on one side of the needle and it protects the sewing thread. Short groove placed on the opposite side of the long groove.
- Eye: Eye is the caring section of sewing thread. Thread is passed through the needle eye. Eye shape is like an elliptical hole.
- Point: Needle is used for sewing of knit or woven fabrics. So, needle point should be for easy penetration of needle to the fabrics. This is shaped for easy penetration.
- Tip: It is the bottom point of a needle. It should be sharp for easy penetration.
So, Needle should be sharper for better penetration through the fabrics.
In apparel manufacturing; sewing machines are used for joining the fabric parts which is supplied from cutting section. Various types of stitching are done in sewing section by the help of needle. Also various accessories are sewing by this machine.
I like to give a list of sewing machines which is used in apparel manufacturing and their application area. They are as follow:
- Lock stitch/Plain/Regular sewing machine: This type of machines is used for all types of garments.
- Two needle lock stitch machine: This type of machines are used for decorative purpose. It is used specially for sew woven fabric.
- Chain stitch machine: It is used for sew both knit and woven fabric.
- Double chain stitch machine: It also used for both knit and woven fabric sewing.
- Over lock machine: It is used for knit and woven fabric sewing. In shirt over lock is used in side seam, arm hole and sleeve.
- Safety stitch over lock machine: It is used for give safety sewing in side seam, arm hole and sleeve of a shirt. Knit and woven fabric both can be sewing by this machine.
- Flat lock machine: flat lock machine is used for covering chain stitch. Flat lock is must for producing knit wear. Bottom hole is produced by this machine.
- Feed off the arm or Flat seamer with cylinder bed: It is used specially for the sleeve inseam joining and inside seam joining of the pant.
- Button hole machine: this machine is used for make hole in the apparel.
- Button sewing machine: this machine is used for sew the button with the apparel.
- Bar tack machine: Bar tack machine is mainly used in pant for belt loop joining, pocket corner and zipper fly.
- Blind stitch machine: This machine is used for special purpose. It is used for sew bottom hem of the pant.
- Kansai special machine: For special purpose this machine is used. Front flacket and waist band of pant is sewing by this type of machine. Also this is a two needle machine but distance between two needles will be 0.5 to 2.50 inch.
- Pocket sewer machine: It is specially used for sew pockets of the coats and blazer.
Different sewing machine manufacturers are produced these type of sewing machine. Sewing machine facilities are differing from one to another. Before buying a sewing machine ones should follow the facilities of sewing machines which are given by the machine.
So, Garments sewing machine should be latest for applying latest technological knowledge to the apparel.
Accessories use to assembling fabric parts which is supplied from cutting section. Different types of accessories are use to make a complete garments. I have given a list of accessories in one of my articles. Now, I will inform you about special types of trimmings which are used for give special attractiveness to the fabric.
Interlining is one type of trimmings. It is placed between two layers of a fabric in apparel. It is fused or sewn to specific area. It is the most extensively used trimmings in apparel. Needle is used for sew the interlining.
Types of Interlining: Interlinings are two types. They are as follows.
Fusible interlining: It is most used interlining. The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics by applying heat and pressure for a certain time, that is called Fusible Interlining.
Fusible interlining is used for all kinds of apparel. Also it is used in “Ready to wear” and “Bespoke garment”.
Fusible Interlining is popular for some advantage which is given below:
- To get similarities among the apparel. Interlining gives the same outlook of the apparel.
- Fusible interlining is available in the market.
- Application process is very easy.
- It has high productivity.
Non Fuse Interlining: The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics directly by sewing without heat and pressure that is called non fuse interlining. This type of interlining is also called sewn interlining.
Non fuse interlining is used for special case. The application field is given below:
- Non fuse interlining use in “Flame Retardant” apparel.
- It is used for making apparel for fire service people.
- It also use for making safety apparels for the peoples who works in re-rolling mills.
- Specially used in embroidery machine.
So, select your one which is required for making a defect free apparels. Interlining is made by different interesting way which I will write in mine another article.