In apparel manufacturing; fabric parts are joined by various stitching. This stitching is done by sewing machine. Specific sewing machine is used for specific stitch formation.
Seam: A stitch line where fabrics are joined together by various fabric arrangements is called a seam. Various types of seam are done in fabric.
Classification of Seam: According to British standard 3870; 1991 seams are classified under eight headings. They are given below.
- Class 1: Superimposed seam.
- Class 2: Lapped seam.
- Class 3: bound seam.
- Class 4: Flat seam.
- Class 5: Decorative seam.
- Class 6: Edge neatening seam.
- Class 7: Applied seam.
- Class 8: Others seam.
Above seam types are important for apparel manufacturing.
In sewing operation; thread is supplied from a thread cone. The cone is hold by a cone or spool holder. From the cone, thread reach into the needle by a thread path. It is important to pass the thread through a right path. Otherwise, sewing operation could be hampered. I have written about the thread path of a lock stitch machine in below.
Sequence of Thread Path in a Lock Stitch Sewing Machine: The sequence of thread path of a lock stitch machine is given below.
Thread guide peg
Take up lever
Needle with needle eye
So, feed your thread according to the above thread path.
In sewing, fabric is feed to the needle over the needle plate. Fabric guides allow sewing to proceed more rapidly. Hammers and guides make it easier to feed the material correctly to the needles and to obtain a regular seam line. So, it is important to adjust the fabric guide in right place.
Types of Fabric Guides: Various types of fabric guides are used in sewing machine. Followings are the most used fabric guides.
- Magnetic edge guide.
- Adjustable edge guide.
- Edge guide for maintain a fixed distance.
- Edge binding guide.
- Folder in seam guide.
- Tape guide.
- Teflon coated presser foot.
- Lap seam folder.
- Lifting foot with edge guide.
So, that’s all are the fabric guide. All of them help a smooth stitch production.